When we started AURZA one of our biggest challenges was creating our ‘block’. This is our unique size & fit that defined our brand and lay at the heart of all our patterns. Thanks to our investment in 3D technology we found an amazing way to do this which resulted in a really great fit for all our medium size dresses (the one you see all the lovely ladies wearing in our photos).
However what we did not realize until much later was how hard it would be to replicate this unique shape and fit across all our standard sizes. Grading is the process of creating a range of sizes for a single style and the majority of pattern makers practice some form of ‘mathematical’ grading. This is where sizes go up or down in a linear fashion with a few adjustments.
The problem with this is a lady who is size 18 isn’t necessarily taller, with longer arms than their size 12 counterpart (a bit of an exaggeration but you get what I mean)!. Therefore we wanted a grading system that allowed us to once again reflect the true shapes of us women based on 3D scanning truths and not just a mathematical formula.
As a result since we kicked off our campaign we have been vigorously applying a ‘morphological’ grading system where we make up a single larger size directly in 3D of our core styles and then create the sizes in between and either side. It was pretty daunting at first as when you look at the patterns on paper some of it seems counter intuitive. However when you see the final designs made up, confidence is restored – the length remains the same and fit aligned, even though the absolute construction of the dress is often slightly different.
Without the support of everyone on our recent Indiegogo campaign we just wouldn’t have been able to take this route as it has required significantly more investment than the traditional solution. However we hope that as a result whatever your fit choice is, you will share the same experience irrespective of your size.
And most importantly, now that the grading is more or less complete, we are really looking forward to sharing some of the first gift box and dress deliveries with you soon!
Steph & Jess